As is typical for a wine professional (I trust you can overlook my loose application of this word), I used to play in a punk band. In fact, I still do but at some point living in a van with a bunch of malodorous drunk guys got a bit tiring. It’s been much better for my finances and potential for repose to relegate puerile music to recreational-status, and instead spend the majority of my time in a beautiful shop with well-groomed and less conspicuous dipsomaniacs.
The feeling of invincibility can inspire in one actions almost akin to somebody on the purposeful path of self-destruction. Though the impudent mindset of a person who feels indestructible seems to be the complete opposite of someone acting out of self-loathing or despair, with both dispositions comes an inclination towards forfeiture of personal regard.
This morning at the conclusion of my bike ride, I saw an elderly man walking his inconspicuous-looking dog and for reasons I can’t explain, I was inspired to observe. It struck me that this man probably has a story, perhaps an interesting or even inspiring one, despite the fact that his apathetic face belied this.
One of the most beautiful things about wine is that it can (and should) be representative of its place of origin. The most rewarding wines are bottled stories of a hallowed setting in a particular growing season and the most articulate grapes can reliably communicate subtle variations in soil-type, aspect, altitude and mesoclimate.
Don't be surprised if you haven't yet heard of Empire Provisions. Dave and Karen began their artisanal butchery and charcuterie in 2016 in a commissary kitchen beneath Una Takeaway. While they've got no proper store front, they're serving up what may be the most delicious sausages, cured meats, and pâté in the city.
Bubbles: Paul Mas Côté Mas Frisante, Sud de France
Charming sparkles made mostly of the Piquepoul grape known for its delicate flavours and zippy acidity.
White: Domaine La Vista ‘Collection’, Côtes Catalanes
Delightful blend of six different Southern French varietals. Dry, zesty, aromatic.
Red: Beauregard ‘Les Belouzes’, Beaujolais-Villages
Gleeful Gamay in a juicy & fruity style.
Perhaps the most noble utility of the artisanal farmer is to nurture into existence that which nobody cares about or isn't the least bit commercially viable, but represents a gift from nature to humankind. Having virtually no experience with farming, I can only imagine the mercantile sacrifices that must be made in order to do so; but nature isn't concerned about fiscal gains, only about the occasional provision of altruistic blessings.
"My people were entirely Nordic, which is to say idiots. Every wrong idea which has ever been expounded was theirs... Until I was about ten years old I never realized that there were 'warm' countries, places where you didn't have to sweat for a living, nor shiver and pretend that it was tonic and exhilarating. "
- Henry Miller
