Domaine Arlaud, Morey-St. Denis
The kids are in control and wines that were previously impressive seem to be getting better with every vintage! Brothers Cyprien and Romain manage the vineyards and make the wine for this 15-hectare estate while their kid sister Bertille ploughs the family land (and that of other producers who contract her to do so) with her own horses.
The Morey-St. Denis wines are redolent of the buckskin masculinity that makes the village so special and the Bourgogne Roncevie, from a parcel in Gevrey-Chambertin, is certainly one of the most accomplished bottles of regional red Burgundy available.
Domaine Arlaud is an excellent address for pure, nuanced Pinot Noir that is also thirst-quenching and charmingly rugged in the most sophisticated sense of the word.